Spicy Sauce, Tender Meatball, Chewy Bread

05/29/14 | By | More
Better than they have any right to be....

Better than they have any right to be….

What if The Brown Dog in Telluride could do something else that that falls into the category of better-than-it-has-any-right-to-be?

I’m thinking of the Detroit style pizza and specifically the 3-1-3 — ricotta, Genoa salami, peppers, arugula, basil, parmesan — which came in first in the world at the 2013 International Pizza challenge.  Proprietors Dan Lynch and Jeff “Smoke” Smokevich obviously understand the beauty of doing something exactly right, perfectly, consistently.

So if the 3-1-3 is, literally, the Best Pizza in the World, why not Calabrese Meatballs? Could these be the Best Meatballs in the World?

New on the menu and being introduced at a ridiculous price at lunch, these puppies are to meatballs what the 3-1-3 is to pizza. You maybe imagined a meatball could be this good, and here you go: evidence of it, right on your fork.

House blended proscuitto, veal, pork and beef, with fennel, in a spicy red sauce, served hot from the oven in a cast iron pan, and I ask, would they taste as good served over linguini as they do served, as they are, with toasted housemade ciabatta?  Lynch and Smokevich have the baking thing down, which you already knew from the  crust on their Detroit pizza.

Suffice it to say that the crunchy, chewy, yeasty bread elevates the Calabrese meatballs, just as the crust is a necessary but not sufficient explanation for the 3-1-3.

So listen up, foodies!  When in Telluride, you’d better make it two stops at The Brown Dog.

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Category: DISHpatches

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